Saturday, July 9, 2011

Besides the food...


...we had a great days as tourists. It was a very mosque heavy day which meant we spent much of it with our necks craned up to look at calligraphy, tiles, and mosaics. We visited 3 of my favorites: Sulimaniye, Kariye, and Eyup. Here's Lilly taking in the 6th century ceiling frescoes at Kariye Camii.

More friends more food...


Tonight we met up with our friend Osman for dinner. He is a fellow Emory PhD in philosophy. He's visiting his family in Istanbul this summer but he took the time to join us for another Turkish-food-a-thon.

Last year Lilly came across a piece in the New Yorker about the Istanbul resturaunt Ciya:

http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2010/04/19/100419fa_fact_batuman

She told me to take her one day. Well that day arrived.




Ciya is a real institution and has three offshoot resturaunts. We opted not to go to their Kebab house (where I took my parents many years ago) but intstead to their "Sofrasi" which has hot and cold bar with a large variety of Anatolian specialties.





We began with cold salads. My favorite being the spiced seaweed in the center of the plate.


We then got a selection of hot dishes. Many of which were unknown to any of us. The chef makes a point of producing little known regional Turkish specialties and we make a point of eating them. Here were some of our favorites...


stuffed zuchini blossoms...




meat balls with stewed cherries...




lamb in pomegranate broth...




Rice stuffed tripe...


yogurt with seeds and nut...



and finished the meal with candied apricots and cream washed down with black tea and wild oregano tea.




This food was truely wonderful. The chef deserves all the acclaim he has been receiving and probably more. This is a MUST GO place for anyone visiting Istanbul.

Friday, July 8, 2011

A Great First Night


Our first night Lilly and I were invited to join the Uz family for dinner (seated all around us, we are in the back left corner). These are old and dear friends of mine from my first year in Turkey. The kindness they have always shown me they have extened to Lilly and made us feel so welcome. We spent the whole night feasting, talking, and joking. It really was a the perfect way to start our trip to this wonderful country.



We ate at the Palmiye Et Lokantasi on the asian side a short cab ride from Kadikoy. This kebab resturuant set in a breezy and pleasant garden was a great way for us to sample lots of different Turkish delicacies. Although it is far from the tourist areas we would recommend it to anyone willing to make the trek.




We started the evening with a selection of cold salads. Eggplant, cucumber, and a plate of sheeps milk cheese. But the most interesting was Ci Kofte (bottom left) which is a raw lamb meat ball cured in spices and eaten wrapped in a lettuce leaf with fresh squeezed lemon. All this was complimented by lavash bread that came hot and steaming to the table and which Tufan proudly popped with his pinky.



Next we had lamacun, which is ground lamb meat and vegies on thin grilled bread.

Then ofcourse Icli Kofte. A lamb meat ball wrapped in a corn batter and lightly fried. This was Lilly's favorite of the evening

Lest we forget the rice stuffed eggplants that showed up too...

But only then did the real meat arrive. Lamb five ways: shish, doner, Adana spiced, off the rib and slow-cooked with pistacio.





All this was washed down with spicy fermented carrot juice called Salgam.


All this ofcourse still leaves room for dessert. Lilly and I had Kunife. This is a particular favorite of mine. It uses the sweet honey syrup of many ottoman desserts but incorporates a layer of tangy cheese. It is one of the most uniqe desserts Ive ever had. It is also served warm so the cheese melts again.


After this we taught Lilly her first Turkish phrase: cok doydum (I'm very full).

Big Turtles and Stars

After dinner on Friday night everyone got Turkish coffee and I (Alex) was treated to a reading of my coffee grounds. Tufan's sister in law did the honors. She is regarded as the most talented coffee reader in the family. I was told she has never been wrong in predicting peoples future in this manner. Let's hope I don't break her record.



The fine art of coffee fortunes is quite simple:



First turn over your finished cup and place a peace of metal on the cup to help dissipate the heat.

Second when the cup is cool flip it over seperating it from the saucer.



Third the cup and saucer are scrutinized for images and symbols imbedded in the coffee stains.


So what was my fortune? It was the best anyone could get. I had an unusually big turtle, an irrefutable symbol of lasting happiness. My cup was also full of stars. Another sign of continued happiness. Happy future here I come.


Although, oddly I can expect a major turning point in my life to involve a moose or other large horned quadraped. You can see the moose shape in this picture. So blog readers please be vigilant and help me keep a look out for life changing Mooseseses.

On the Road Again


I've occassionaly told Lilly that my favorite thing to do is travel with her. Not travel in the sense of going to see exciting destinations but actually the act of travelling itself. That is moving from point a to b which inevitably involves sitting in airports, waiting on trains platforms, reading bus schedules, the stuff that most people hate and want to rush through. Lilly makes all this stuff somehow fun. I know this will be true for our current trip to Turkey. Expect some long flights and longer bus rides. Anatolia here we come! It's good to be back on the road.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

MARRIED

Holy Moly, SO MARRIED RIGHT NOW. 

Stole a pic off our awesome photographer's site.  Check more out here.

Friday, July 1, 2011

A little of what's been going on



Hushpuppies and bbq from King's in Kinston on the way to the NC coast.

 Passing New Bern, NC.

 Sailing with Granddaddy


 Learning Alex some sailing.

 Shrimp burgers and sweet potato fries at the Village Deli in Raleigh, NC.

 Lunch on my grandmother's porch - Smithfield, NC.

Paying tribute at the Ava Gardner Museum - Smithfield, NC.

 Who says you can't go home again?  Pilgrimage to my alma mater, the beautiful UNC-CH.

Oh yeah, it was that guy who said it.  Thomas Wolfe, one of UNC's many notable alum.

 Impromptu engagement shoot @ the Old Well. 

Ava Gardner & Mickey Rooney on their wedding day.

We've been having a great time in NC on the days leading up to our wedding.  The big day is TOMORROW - wish us luck!!!  Thanks to all our friends & family for your love in support :)